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Phillydude411 12-02-2009 10:57 AM

Samsung PN50B530 Plasma TV - Setup, Calibration, Troubleshooting, etc.
 
A lot of Slickdealer's, including myself, bought the Samsung PN50B530 50" Plasma TV, and have started to set it up. This thread is to help setup the TV to get the best experience out of it.

Please update the wiki with useful information.

wikipost 12-02-2009 10:57 AM

This post can and should be edited by users like you :)
 
Something I personally think it is very useful if anyone wants to learn more about their samsung plasma tv.
Click Me! [samsungplasmatvfaq.com]


Link to original deal thread

Link to Samsung's website [samsung.com]

Calibration:
B850: http://www.flatpanelshd.com/revie...1245336433
B550: http://reviews.plasmatvbuyingguid...eview.html

Break-In:
From the AVS forums, here's a free break-in disc! [avsforum.com] [avsforum.com] It is recommended you do this step because it can reduce your risk of burn-in.
Burn in doesn't seem to be a problem on modern plasmas, though. see: http://hdguru.com/plasma-tv-burn-...-myth/826/
Should you want to do your own calibration, here's the free AVSForum calibration disc in multiple formats [avsforum.com]. [avsforum.com] Download, burn to dvd, and enjoy!


Verifying the latest Firmware version:
the one on my TV appears to be newer than the one that Samsung has on its website. Go to support menu, and "software upgrade" submenu, and then click "info" on remote.
If screen reflects: T-STL5PAUSFC-1020.0 2009/09/18 this is newer than what's listed on the samsung website which shows: v:1018.1 and release date of September 18, 2009.

Changing the TV from B530 to B560:
It seems (according to the AVS forums) that you can turn this one into an "A/B560": (Credits to "pbc" at the AVS for the following info and settings)
To get into the service menu; Make sure that the TV is fully off then press the following on your remote:
Mute, then 1-8-2 followed by power on your remote
Once in the Service Menu, press enter on options. On the next screen go to model and simply select A560. REMEMBER: all your settings will now be factory default.

Why you'd want to change it from B530 to B550/560 (from Samsung's Website): There are a few differences between the B550 and the B530 Samsung Plasma TVs -
1) The B550 offers a Touch of Color Charcoal Gray.
2) The B550 offers USB2.0 which allows you to view pictures and listen to MP3s via a usb device.
3) The B550 offers one extra HDMI and Composite connection along the side.
4) The B550 also offers one PC connection (RGB D-sub)

haloguy 12-02-2009 07:40 PM

Does component over 1080p

YellowSnow4 12-03-2009 11:12 AM

I've been screwing around with the callibrations since I don't really like the ones I've tried from threads and articles online. I think I've got it where I like it, but I guess I should try that calibration disc since I have never calibrated a TV before.

I watched Start Trek last night, on Blu Ray and there was no way to eliminate the black bars at the top and bottom of the screen. 5 minutes of the screen saver thingy cleared the IR though. I think I'm at about 50 hours of use.

eoffers 12-03-2009 12:07 PM

can any one post your calibration settings - if they like your setup ? The picture with default settings looks REDDIsh...

haloguy 12-03-2009 12:22 PM

I have been having a strange issue with my tv. Sometimes I accidentally switch the source of the tv to "TV" instead of hdmi+, where my cable box is connected. When this happens, I am not able to switch back to hdmi. As I try to scroll down, the selector instantly snaps back to the "tv" input. I have to veru quickly press down and enter in order for it to go back to hdmi, and even then it doesn't switch all the time. has anyone had this issue with their tv?

V0RT3X 12-03-2009 12:24 PM

How do you know what numbers to change to to get your TV calibrated? I know nothing in this area and would like some info please. Lots of my friends even worse and don't even know what calibrate is or don't know they need calibrate or not

Phillydude411 12-03-2009 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by haloguy (Post 25350773)
I have been having a strange issue with my tv. Sometimes I accidentally switch the source of the tv to "TV" instead of hdmi+, where my cable box is connected. When this happens, I am not able to switch back to hdmi. As I try to scroll down, the selector instantly snaps back to the "tv" input. I have to veru quickly press down and enter in order for it to go back to hdmi, and even then it doesn't switch all the time. has anyone had this issue with their tv?

I haven't had any problems like this, I can use the TV button to view my cable channels and use the source button twice followed by enter to switch to my HTPC.

FYI - I connected my HTPC via HDMI using an ATI 4550 card and had to switch to "Screen Fit" mode to get full screen coverage. I did select 1080p in my ATI Control center settings.

Quote:

Originally Posted by eoffers (Post 25350232)
can any one post your calibration settings - if they like your setup ? The picture with default settings looks REDDIsh...

The picture definitely looks reddish, but I haven't played around with calibration, waiting for burn-in period (100hrs) to be over first. (25hrs done, 75 more to go!)

eoffers 12-03-2009 12:48 PM

so you recommend to use default setting during the burn-in period ? Are you just watcing TV OR running special DVD during the burnin period?

I am new to Plasma world and confussed with bur-in concent

philltubes 12-03-2009 02:14 PM

If your not using the break in CD images it is best to reduce the contrast and brightness settings to 50 or below, I haven't seen any suggestions for where to set cell, I have my cell set at . The picture is darker at these settings but it reduces the chances of IR.

haloguy 12-03-2009 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by philltubes (Post 25354262)
If your not using the break in CD images it is best to reduce the contrast and brightness settings to 50 or below, I haven't seen any suggestions for where to set cell, I have my cell set at . The picture is darker at these settings but it reduces the chances of IR.

I don't want to deal with dvd burning in, so right now I am watching everything zoomed to fill the screen, with cell under 5, brightness and contrast under 50. A natural break in, have you.


the source selection errors are starting to happen with my other inputs. I am beginning to think something may be wrong with the panel.

Quote:

Originally Posted by V0RT3X (Post 25350815)
How do you know what numbers to change to to get your TV calibrated? I know nothing in this area and would like some info please. Lots of my friends even worse and don't even know what calibrate is or don't know they need calibrate or not

Click one of the links in the wiki. Enter those values under the corresponding headings in the menu.

BTs4me 12-03-2009 08:20 PM

did anyone take the plunge for a wall mount? wondering what you bought if so????

Also, besides the optical cable and some hdmi cables, do I need to buy anything else? (I'm gonna have to call the geek squad to get it installed and don't want them to charge me any more than necessary as the install enough will be pricey!)

YellowSnow4 12-03-2009 08:40 PM

1 Attachment(s)
The stand I bought has a "floater" or built-in stand...not a wall mount, but similar without screwing into the wall.

We picked it up for $200 as an impulse buy.

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/pr...d=11987913

BTs4me 12-03-2009 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YellowSnow4 (Post 25364463)
The stand I bought has a "floater" or built-in stand...not a wall mount, but similar without screwing into the wall.

We picked it up for $200 as an impulse buy.

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/pr...d=11987913

thanks for posting. I just pulled the trigger on Monoprice's wall mount [monoprice.com]... a floor stand will not work in my corner thanks to a fireplace! This one has a VESA that is supported by the tv specs so I think I'll be ok with it. I upgraded to the model with the solid aluminum arms (vs. hollow steel arms). Grabbed the opticable while I was there as well. Won't ship until 12/7 because of high demand. (Geez must be Christmas and Dell's shipping TVs out!)

Now I'm looking at purchasing a 3 year warranty from Squaretrade - $149.99. With a coupon, there's an additional 25% off. (Use code warrantysanta.) Just wish I knew on 12/2 that the tv would definitely ship - they had 40% off on warranties. I think I'll wait a while and see if they offer another deal @ 40% off between now and Christmas.

6-paq 12-04-2009 06:38 AM

Being total "plasma noobs" here, could someone please post a link to monoprice's HDMI cable that we would need?

I have the HT and our cable DVR.

I found the toslink, just don't know about the HDMI cable. Would need a 6 ft cable.

TIA!

haloguy 12-04-2009 07:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YellowSnow4 (Post 25364463)
The stand I bought has a "floater" or built-in stand...not a wall mount, but similar without screwing into the wall.

We picked it up for $200 as an impulse buy.

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/pr...d=11987913

I might get that with the 20% walmart cashback. I got a smaller stand from target that was rated for 136 lbs, but when put together it was shaking to much, it was generally unstable, so I took that back, and now the tv is currently being watched on the floor :lol:

podboy 12-04-2009 07:59 AM

Can anyone tell me is this set has an sd slot? I've been looking at specs all over and can't find the answer. I have the break-in slides on a card and would rather use that instead of the dvd.

haloguy 12-04-2009 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6-paq (Post 25372784)
Being total "plasma noobs" here, could someone please post a link to monoprice's HDMI cable that we would need?

I have the HT and our cable DVR.

I found the toslink, just don't know about the HDMI cable. Would need a 6 ft cable.

TIA!

I've gotten 5 of these. They all are perfect.
http://www.monoprice.com/products...1&format=2
The blue one, which is exactly the same, is a little bit cheaper.
http://www.monoprice.com/products...1&format=2

Quote:

Originally Posted by podboy (Post 25375292)
Can anyone tell me is this set has an sd slot? I've been looking at specs all over and can't find the answer. I have the break-in slides on a card and would rather use that instead of the dvd.

No, it does not.

podboy 12-04-2009 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by haloguy (Post 25375295)

No, it does not.

Man, that sucks...

6-paq 12-04-2009 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by haloguy (Post 25375295)
I've gotten 5 of these. They all are perfect.
http://www.monoprice.com/products...1&format=2
The blue one, which is exactly the same, is a little bit cheaper.
http://www.monoprice.com/products...1&format=2


No, it does not.

Thanks and repped!!

jstnpiper 12-04-2009 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by haloguy (Post 25350773)
I have been having a strange issue with my tv. Sometimes I accidentally switch the source of the tv to "TV" instead of hdmi+, where my cable box is connected. When this happens, I am not able to switch back to hdmi. As I try to scroll down, the selector instantly snaps back to the "tv" input. I have to veru quickly press down and enter in order for it to go back to hdmi, and even then it doesn't switch all the time. has anyone had this issue with their tv?

I think it may have something to do with the Anynet+ feature (if your using the dvd system). Mine was doing it, but I soon figured out that you press once to bring up the source list, then select the correct source and press ENTER. There is a slight delay

philltubes 12-05-2009 05:25 AM

I my original post I left out where I set cell at for break in. I have it set at 4 or 5 with contrast and brightness set below 50. I used the settings provided by the plasmabuyingguide review for the B550 and it looked really nice but the colors are a little strong/overdone on some program material. Has anyone found any other calibration #'s to set the B530 up?

I got my first taste of IR yesterday when a movie came on Showtime with the black bars at top and bottom, I changed the channel and there it was, IR. A few minutes of full screen display and the IR was gone.

asdf002 12-05-2009 12:04 PM

hey guys, anyone of your guys' sammy buzz? my set buzzes and it annoys the heck out of me. i am aware of the "standard" buzz emitted by plasma, but this buzzing is louder than my other samsung and panny plasma.

jonathag 12-05-2009 12:38 PM

Here is what I've done fwiw, don't know if I'm doing it correctly, but I have seen no burn in yet.

I turned on the set for the first time almost three days ago, set the contract and brightness to 50, and made sure that on most things we watch it is zoomed in (by hitting the picture size button), because some commercials and programs were showing the black bar at the top and bottom when in 16:9 mode, so all of the programs we are watching are a little goofy looking being zoomed in, but we are only that temporarily.

Only other thing I've been doing is at night before bed or when we leave to go somewhere I run that break in disk from avforum and just let it run continually. By tomorrow night at midnight we'll have 96 hours straight of the tv being on. I haven't noticed any burn in or anything.

I also set that screen burn protection setting to 2 minutes like the manual shows, that is supposed to help with burn in also.

I wasn't able to find any settings in the tv for setting the top/bottom or side/side bars to grey instead of black, that's why I just leave it zoomed in on the picture size all the time.

BTs4me 12-05-2009 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonathag (Post 25410627)
Here is what I've done fwiw, don't know if I'm doing it correctly, but I have seen no burn in yet.

I turned on the set for the first time almost three days ago, set the contract and brightness to 50, and made sure that on most things we watch it is zoomed in (by hitting the picture size button), because some commercials and programs were showing the black bar at the top and bottom when in 16:9 mode, so all of the programs we are watching are a little goofy looking being zoomed in, but we are only that temporarily.

Only other thing I've been doing is at night before bed or when we leave to go somewhere I run that break in disk from avforum and just let it run continually. By tomorrow night at midnight we'll have 96 hours straight of the tv being on. I haven't noticed any burn in or anything.

I also set that screen burn protection setting to 2 minutes like the manual shows, that is supposed to help with burn in also.

I wasn't able to find any settings in the tv for setting the top/bottom or side/side bars to grey instead of black, that's why I just leave it zoomed in on the picture size all the time.

let us know, too, how much your electric bill increases next month, ok?
~~~~~~
on another note, what are folks doing with those speakers (assuming you're keeping the 5.1 HTIB system). Not sure if I need to buy speaker wall mounts or not?? Any advice???

jonathag 12-05-2009 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BTs4me (Post 25411498)
let us know, too, how much your electric bill increases next month, ok?
~~~~~~
on another note, what are folks doing with those speakers (assuming you're keeping the 5.1 HTIB system). Not sure if I need to buy speaker wall mounts or not?? Any advice???


What was so wrong in doing it this way? Other people recommended letting it run for 75-100 straight with that break in disc. Will my electric bill really be higher? Nobody ever said not to do it this way and I asked a couple of times, so I didn't think anything of it.

BTs4me 12-05-2009 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonathag (Post 25411980)
What was so wrong in doing it this way? Other people recommended letting it run for 75-100 straight with that break in disc. Will my electric bill really be higher? Nobody ever said not to do it this way and I asked a couple of times, so I didn't think anything of it.

Didn't mean for it to be interpreted negatively at all (sorry); I was just curious if the electric bill goes up and if so, by how much. I'm thinking it will go up in general but haven't a clue. Sorry for any misunderstanding.

YellowSnow4 12-05-2009 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by asdf002 (Post 25409920)
hey guys, anyone of your guys' sammy buzz? my set buzzes and it annoys the heck out of me. i am aware of the "standard" buzz emitted by plasma, but this buzzing is louder than my other samsung and panny plasma.

That sucks. I'd try to get Samsung to fix it under warranty or maybe try to get it exchanged if the vendor will do that. I haven't heard any buzz or had any issues at all, knock on wood. I saw a thread on C-Net where at least 10 people had woken up to a cracked panel in their Sammy plasmas and getting Samsung to fix it required filing a complaint with the BBB. What a nightmare.

I put a couple complaints about this TV in the Dell thread but it seems more appropriate to put them here.

The first complaint was that you can't get rid of one remote despite the Anynet feature. I thought that the TV remote wouldn't turn on the HT but I just figured out how to do that. You hit the Tools button and then hit the Enter button. Then click down and turn the Receiver to On.

However you still need the HT remote to change to different sound profiles. And you can't just stick with the HT remote because it doesn't have a P. Size or Source buttons. So with the DVR remote, we're stuck using 3 remotes to watch TV. :(

I also wish it had two Wide settings like my Sony LCD does. Luckily it does use the method I prefer which stetches horizontally a touch and then zooms in a touch which effectively crops the black bars on the side when watching 4:3 programs without stretching too much. But sometimes you just want to stretch it wide, with no cropping of the top and bottom like when watching a show with something at the very top or bottom of the screen like sport or the news.

I really just wish the HT remote had a P. Size and Source buttons!

haloguy 12-05-2009 09:19 PM

Today I encountered a few problems with this set.

I realized today that the settings from plasmatvbuyingguide are off. I know this because I ran the avsforum calibration clips, and on the gray scale tests, noticed a GREAT deal of yellow in the whites. I read up on it, and it seems this is because there is not enough blue in the picture. If anyone else has calibrated according to the plasmatvbuyingguide settings, you probably aren't getting enough blue in your picture. Until someone calibrates this exact set, and not a related model, we won't have perfect picture settings.

My source switching problem occurred again, I hope its not going to be permanent.

jonathag 12-05-2009 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BTs4me (Post 25419222)
Didn't mean for it to be interpreted negatively at all (sorry); I was just curious if the electric bill goes up and if so, by how much. I'm thinking it will go up in general but haven't a clue. Sorry for any misunderstanding.



No problem, I've been using an old crt set for years so I thought you knew something I didn't and I didn't want a higher electric bill! ;)

Markq327 12-06-2009 12:40 PM

I think this question was answered in the original thread but I can't find it...

So i have VGA and DVI ports on my computer. If i want to coonnect it to the TV, is the best way just a DVI to HDMI cable? But this is only video I think? I have a cable that goes from the 3.5mm computer audio to the red and white composite audio. So i think I can use this for sound, and with these 2 cables ill be covered?

Any help will be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Edit: I tried the audio cable to my old CRT TV and it works fine, so I guess all thats left is getting the video there...

haloguy 12-06-2009 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Markq327 (Post 25434496)
I think this question was answered in the original thread but I can't find it...

So i have VGA and DVI ports on my computer. If i want to coonnect it to the TV, is the best way just a DVI to HDMI cable? But this is only video I think? I have a cable that goes from the 3.5mm computer audio to the red and white composite audio. So i think I can use this for sound, and with these 2 cables ill be covered?

Any help will be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Edit: I tried the audio cable to my old CRT TV and it works fine, so I guess all thats left is getting the video there...

Yes, this will work for video, but the audio will only be 2.0 audio. You will need to find another way to get audio to the tv/receiver if you want 5.1

YellowSnow4 12-06-2009 03:19 PM

Yep. Use HDMI 2 since it has the RCA cable inputs.

Markq327 12-06-2009 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by haloguy (Post 25435985)
Yes, this will work for video, but the audio will only be 2.0 audio. You will need to find another way to get audio to the tv/receiver if you want 5.1

Good point. I might just have to live with that as 2.0 though

haloguy 12-06-2009 05:11 PM

Interesting read
http://hdguru.com/plasma-tv-burn-...-myth/826/

It seems as though current plasmas have really no chance of getting burned in. I never bothered with the avs break in, it seems you really don't need to do it.

Markq327 12-06-2009 08:27 PM

I bought 3 HDMI cables, the optical, and a DVI/HDMI on monoprice at 8pm... its now 11pm and i have a UPS tracking number. Talk about night and day compared to the TV fiasco lol.

Oreoflow 12-06-2009 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by haloguy (Post 25350773)
I have been having a strange issue with my tv. Sometimes I accidentally switch the source of the tv to "TV" instead of hdmi+, where my cable box is connected. When this happens, I am not able to switch back to hdmi. As I try to scroll down, the selector instantly snaps back to the "tv" input. I have to veru quickly press down and enter in order for it to go back to hdmi, and even then it doesn't switch all the time. has anyone had this issue with their tv?

Did you do the trick to "upgrade" your TV to a 560 or whatever it is? Maybe that has something to do with it?

eoffers 12-07-2009 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oreoflow (Post 25444995)
Did you do the trick to "upgrade" your TV to a 560 or whatever it is? Maybe that has something to do with it?

What is the advantage of doing 560 trick? I see suggestions, but not find reasons/advantages?

BTs4me 12-08-2009 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eoffers (Post 25454572)
What is the advantage of doing 560 trick? I see suggestions, but not find reasons/advantages?

I did read it in one of those 200+ posts. I think it had something to do with having the ability to play media from the usb port on the back. I can't swear to it and a quick search on B530 didn't produce any results! Anyone else recall that post on the original thread????

haloguy 12-08-2009 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BTs4me (Post 25515896)
I did read it in one of those 200+ posts. I think it had something to do with having the ability to play media from the usb port on the back. I can't swear to it and a quick search on B530 didn't produce any results! Anyone else recall that post on the original thread????

yes, this is what its supposed to do
I haven't done this yet

krisgg 12-08-2009 10:30 PM

Supposedly the model B560 that Samsung sells can do picture-in-picture but I am not sure if switching to B560 on this one will do the trick.

podboy 12-09-2009 07:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krisgg (Post 25523843)
Supposedly the model B560 that Samsung sells can do picture-in-picture but I am not sure if switching to B560 on this one will do the trick.

I thought it added the USB port and the Cinema Smooth picture setting. Anyone out there know for sure??? Maybe someone here can just switch it real quick and check? I would, but I don't have my TV yet...

Mikeylike 12-09-2009 10:20 AM

Anyone upload the new firmware to their TV, not having a problem just wondered what it is supposed to do?
I guess leave well enough alone since I am not having any issues.
I am going to calibrate after my 100 hours just to be safe, this will not be with any special equipment other than the AVS calibration disc and the THX that are on the PIXAR dvd's but if it looks good to my eyes that is what matters.

fungroy 12-09-2009 02:41 PM

How to connect the PC to the Monitor
 
I currently try to connect my PC to the TV. My PC have DVI, VGA and HDMI video card. The thing is, the audio is just a mini-jack onboard sound card. How can I get video/audio on the same channel? Someone please kindly enough to show me how to do it. Thanks a lot.

YellowSnow4 12-09-2009 03:06 PM

^

Video: Use the 2nd HDMI port with a DVI>HDMI cable.
Audio: Use the RCA (composite) jacks next to the 2nd HDMI port with RCA>3.5mm audio cable. Make sure the cable/adapter supports stereo, not mono. :)

Any of the "cables" I suggested above could consist of a normal cable and an adapter or a cable that is an adapter, itself. I'd get them from monoprice.

fungroy 12-09-2009 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YellowSnow4 (Post 25545604)
^

Video: Use the 2nd HDMI port with a DVI>HDMI cable.
Audio: Use the RCA (composite) jacks next to the 2nd HDMI port with RCA>3.5mm audio cable. Make sure the cable/adapter supports stereo, not mono. :)

Any of the "cables" I suggested above could consist of a normal cable and an adapter or a cable that is an adapter, itself. I'd get them from monoprice.


Thanks for the answer. Now I am wondering is that possible to get a 5.1 surrond sound from my computer. I read the previous post that I will only get 2.0. Just wonder will it make a difference if the RCA connect to the HT, instead of TV.

YellowSnow4 12-09-2009 07:37 PM

I don't think RCA can carry 5.1, but I may be wrong. If you could do optical out from the sound card to the HT, you'd be set with 5.1.

idealistix 12-10-2009 01:10 PM

I don't see any reason to change the setting to 560. The home theatre has a USB port, so I can use it if necessary, but I doubt I'll ever use it because I can easily connect my PC to the TV. The PC is in another room, but I ran a long HDMI cable under the house to the TV area.

Are there any other benefits to tricking the TV into thinking it is a 560?

haloguy 12-12-2009 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by idealistix (Post 25575362)
I don't see any reason to change the setting to 560. The home theatre has a USB port, so I can use it if necessary, but I doubt I'll ever use it because I can easily connect my PC to the TV. The PC is in another room, but I ran a long HDMI cable under the house to the TV area.

Are there any other benefits to tricking the TV into thinking it is a 560?

I think the usb function was the main reason for switching.



I found a useful tool for those who want 5.1 from multiple sources.
http://www.monoprice.com/products...largeimage

Not only will this allow multiple inputs, like other switches have, but it will also take the 5.1 out of the hdmi signal and put it out through toslink. This is important because when you connected toslink from the tv to reciever, you only get 2.0, not 5.1 The tv downmixes. You must use this in certain situations to get 5.1 audio when you cannot output optical audio from your source. for example, my computer puts out hdmi, but doesn't have an option for optical out. Therefore, due to the tv downmixing before outputting, I have no way to get 5.1 audio to the reciever without the switch.

jake123 12-13-2009 06:17 PM

By enabling HDMI control (CEC) with my TV, I'm able to power on my PS3 or Samsung home theater and have it automatically turn on my tv.
Is there a way to have the Home theater system automatically turn on whenever the TV goes on? Currently it will automatically go off when I turn off the TV.

Thanks!

wootwoot123 12-13-2009 09:25 PM

How many of you are planning on breaking this TV in with a break in disc?

TextileWolf 12-14-2009 04:30 AM

I am planning on just being careful with what I watch for the first 100 hours or so.

I do like to play video games though....and I haven't decided how much or even if I am going to play on it prior to the first 100 hours. Any thoughts?

NFRS2000 12-14-2009 10:49 AM

Does anyone know if I watch a certain channel to long with say for example the Comedy channel logo at the bottom right of the screen,will this cause screen burn?

jake123 12-14-2009 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NFRS2000 (Post 25697610)
Does anyone know if I watch a certain channel to long with say for example the Comedy channel logo at the bottom right of the screen,will this cause screen burn?

Yes it will. However it won't last to long, its not permeant, you'll see a shadow for just a few seconds.

YellowSnow4 12-14-2009 01:09 PM

After watching a movie on Blue Ray with the black bars at the top and bottom, I'll switch to TV and can barely notice the bars for under a minute and then they're gone for good. Image Retention is hardly noticeable and burn in would take a week or two on the same image, me thinks.

Also, almost all of the channel emblems are translucent and/or they move around, these days.

hoho220 12-14-2009 03:28 PM

I am currently using the break in DVD and I have a question. Is it ok to use an RCA cable to connect the DVD to the TV? I guess it comes down to do I need to break the TV in using 720p? Any help would be appreciated. Here is my current logic. Most people do not bother with break in and most people are not watching only HDTV so I am thinking it would be alright to break in the TV using a 480p with the dvd break in, as long as there are no black bars. Is this correct?

richromerman 12-14-2009 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wootwoot123 (Post 25675048)
How many of you are planning on breaking this TV in with a break in disc?

I havent bothered with the burn-in disc. I am just turning down the contrast and brightness for first 100 or so hours. Picture is unbelievable with little calibration. :drool:

richromerman 12-14-2009 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jake123 (Post 25704024)
Yes it will. However it won't last to long, its not permeant, you'll see a shadow for just a few seconds.

I haven't seen any image retention yet. even after watching ESPN or football for hours (scores are static). I'm convinced burn-in isn't an issue with the new plasma technology.

haloguy 12-14-2009 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hoho220 (Post 25710042)
I am currently using the break in DVD and I have a question. Is it ok to use an RCA cable to connect the DVD to the TV? I guess it comes down to do I need to break the TV in using 720p? Any help would be appreciated. Here is my current logic. Most people do not bother with break in and most people are not watching only HDTV so I am thinking it would be alright to break in the TV using a 480p with the dvd break in, as long as there are no black bars. Is this correct?

Yeah, this is fine. Btw rca cables transmit 480i.

I really wouldn't bother with the break in process. A recent test by hd guru showed that its nearly impossible to burn in the set. They showed the same static image on the screen for 8 hours on modern plasmas, and none of them burned it. Really, its not a problem, some plasma manufacturers claim their sets have the same burn in susceptibility of crt's, which is very low.;

Jawadali 12-15-2009 11:50 PM

I just wanted to share some comments regarding using this display as a PC monitor.

I currently have my PC connected to the TV via a DVI cable with a DVI to HDMI adapter. It's and old Athlon 1.4Ghz PC with 512MB of RAM, and I am using a Geforce 9400GT PCI card with the latest Nvidia drivers for Windows XP.

I initially had an older Nvidia video card in there (Geforce 4 Ti 4200), and even with this, the TV displayed the desktop, and even worked at 1920x1080. However, the image looked over-saturated, the edges (start menu) were cut off, and much of the fonts had white outlining. I had to set the TV to "Stretch Fit" using the "P.Size" button to take care of the edge cutoff issue.

After installing the new card and drivers, I found that setting the "name" of the "HDMI2/DVI" connection to "PC" or "DVI PC" fixed the aforementioned display issues, and resulted in an image that is similar to what you'd see on a typical LCD monitor. I think that changing this TV setting, rather than changing the video card, is what really fixed the issues.

Also, I had to set the "HDMI2/DVI" output label to "DVI PC" in order get the sound working, since I am using the RCA audio jacks and a 3.5mm to RCA cable, When it was set to "PC", Windows thought that sound was working fine, but I could not hear anything (even after reinstalling the sound card).

The new card is not a total loss, since it supports GPU-accelerated video decoding (and in the future, Adobe Flash decoding). This is important for me since this is what this PC is used for almost exclusively. I tried the flash 10.1 beta, which has preliminary support for GPU flash acceleration, but running videos in fullscreen was much worse than the current stable version (10.0).

Lastly, can anyone get Flash video to ignore the aspect ratio and stretch the whole width of the TV (i.e. when viewing youtube)?

I can't get this to work my current configuration. I am using Firefox 3.5.

Thanks!

Jawadali 12-16-2009 09:05 AM

Also, will any problems arise if direct sunlight falls on the TV? This happens for a few hours in the afternoon per day.

Markq327 12-16-2009 10:19 AM

got my HDMI cables.... makes all the difference in the world for Xbox 360... still no HD cable box until next month so i'll have to wait to compare that. I happen to have an Xbox where you cant have the optical and HDMI in at the same time. I know you can crack the plastic part on the Xbox component cable or buy their $50 adapter. Haven't decided yet. Also, I do get sound out of the rear speakers when i do HDMI to TV and optical from TV to HT, but my speakers aren't set up yet, just sitting 5-10 ft apart around me. Anyone have any comments on how different the sound is with optical straight from the Xbox to HT? I read that it's suposedly higer quality this way, something about the TV having to do some kind of HDMI sound decoding... (no idea lol) I'll probably try breaking the plastic piece soon but as of now I can't tell the difference in audio, though that may change when it's set up around my room.

Also got a DVI to HDMI cable, then didnt realize my video card from 2007 only supports up to 1280x1024 resoloution, so i can't get signal, stupid me... I figure when I buy a new comp in a year or so the card wil have HDMI input anyway... at least monoprice is cheap

haloguy 12-16-2009 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jawadali (Post 25767628)
I just wanted to share some comments regarding using this display as a PC monitor.

I currently have my PC connected to the TV via a DVI cable with a DVI to HDMI adapter. It's and old Athlon 1.4Ghz PC with 512MB of RAM, and I am using a Geforce 9400GT PCI card with the latest Nvidia drivers for Windows XP.

I initially had an older Nvidia video card in there (Geforce 4 Ti 4200), and even with this, the TV displayed the desktop, and even worked at 1920x1080. However, the image looked over-saturated, the edges (start menu) were cut off, and much of the fonts had white outlining. I had to set the TV to "Stretch Fit" using the "P.Size" button to take care of the edge cutoff issue.

After installing the new card and drivers, I found that setting the "name" of the "HDMI2/DVI" connection to "PC" or "DVI PC" fixed the aforementioned display issues, and resulted in an image that is similar to what you'd see on a typical LCD monitor. I think that changing this TV setting, rather than changing the video card, is what really fixed the issues.

Also, I had to set the "HDMI2/DVI" output label to "DVI PC" in order get the sound working, since I am using the RCA audio jacks and a 3.5mm to RCA cable, When it was set to "PC", Windows thought that sound was working fine, but I could not hear anything (even after reinstalling the sound card).

The new card is not a total loss, since it supports GPU-accelerated video decoding (and in the future, Adobe Flash decoding). This is important for me since this is what this PC is used for almost exclusively. I tried the flash 10.1 beta, which has preliminary support for GPU flash acceleration, but running videos in fullscreen was much worse than the current stable version (10.0).

Lastly, can anyone get Flash video to ignore the aspect ratio and stretch the whole width of the TV (i.e. when viewing youtube)?

I can't get this to work my current configuration. I am using Firefox 3.5.

Thanks!

I dont think you can override the aspect ratio on youtube, or any other flash video player, unless it has that specific option. A lot of the videos coming out on youtube now are 16:9, but you will have a problem with older ones.

haloguy 12-16-2009 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Markq327 (Post 25781906)
got my HDMI cables.... makes all the difference in the world for Xbox 360... still no HD cable box until next month so i'll have to wait to compare that. I happen to have an Xbox where you cant have the optical and HDMI in at the same time. I know you can crack the plastic part on the Xbox component cable or buy their $50 adapter. Haven't decided yet. Also, I do get sound out of the rear speakers when i do HDMI to TV and optical from TV to HT, but my speakers aren't set up yet, just sitting 5-10 ft apart around me. Anyone have any comments on how different the sound is with optical straight from the Xbox to HT? I read that it's suposedly higer quality this way, something about the TV having to do some kind of HDMI sound decoding... (no idea lol) I'll probably try breaking the plastic piece soon but as of now I can't tell the difference in audio, though that may change when it's set up around my room.

Also got a DVI to HDMI cable, then didnt realize my video card from 2007 only supports up to 1280x1024 resoloution, so i can't get signal, stupid me... I figure when I buy a new comp in a year or so the card wil have HDMI input anyway... at least monoprice is cheap

Basically, when you put the sound through the tv and then to the receiver, 5.1 does not get transmitted, 2.0 does. Sound may be coming out of the back speakers due to a feature on the receiver to simulate 5.1 from a 2.0 source. Basically, its not going to sound as good as if you hooked it up straight to the receiver. I would advise you to bite the bullet and crack the plastic on the housing.

richromerman 12-16-2009 06:02 PM

Comcast Remote
 
For Comcast users.... Has anyone figured out the remote code for the HT-Z320?

Markq327 12-17-2009 05:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by haloguy (Post 25798740)
Basically, when you put the sound through the tv and then to the receiver, 5.1 does not get transmitted, 2.0 does. Sound may be coming out of the back speakers due to a feature on the receiver to simulate 5.1 from a 2.0 source. Basically, its not going to sound as good as if you hooked it up straight to the receiver. I would advise you to bite the bullet and crack the plastic on the housing.

Thanks.. yeah ive been leaning towards doing that. Its the same for my computer speakers. (Logitech x-540) They call it "matrix mode" or something when it converts 2.0 to 5.1. I would imagine this system is at least better at doing this conversion but I'm sure Ill make sure it gets optical when I set this up when I move next month.

bubbagumper6 12-17-2009 10:11 AM

I totally skipped any break-in and have had NO instances of any IR at all. I also immediately started playing my videogames on the tv and even the health bars and such showed no retention whatsoever. This was all with the brightness at 80 and contrast at 90 :) I too am convinced that you would have to be a complete idiot to burn an image into this screen (i.e. leave a static image on it for hours/days)

YellowSnow4 12-17-2009 08:53 PM

Sounds like people (myself included) are loving the settings here: http://reviews.plasmatvbuyingguid...ation.html

Should I add it to the Wiki?

Edit: It's already there. :lol:

mobilesuit 12-18-2009 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YellowSnow4 (Post 25847366)
Sounds like people (myself included) are loving the settings here: http://reviews.plasmatvbuyingguid...ation.html

Should I add it to the Wiki?

Edit: It's already there. :lol:

I haven't tried these settings yet. But are they suitable for a brightly lit room?

YellowSnow4 12-18-2009 10:24 AM

I'd say yes. In fact, if you haven't got a 100 hours on it yet, you should be more careful with static images/black bars than you normally would. I did turn the cell light up to 10 last night while watching Survivor though. Seemed a little dark to me but that seemed to fix it.

bubbagumper6 12-18-2009 10:27 AM

I didn't see anywhere in the menu where I could adjust the individual colors (red/blue/green) was I just missing it? Also 56 is kinda low for the brightness, I believe I had mine around 75-80 when I was playing videogames the other day...at 50 it was just too dark to be able to see the details I need to not get shot, lol

YellowSnow4 12-18-2009 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bubbagumper6 (Post 25866790)
I didn't see anywhere in the menu where I could adjust the individual colors (red/blue/green) was I just missing it? Also 56 is kinda low for the brightness, I believe I had mine around 75-80 when I was playing videogames the other day...at 50 it was just too dark to be able to see the details I need to not get shot, lol

Highlight "White Balance" and then hit the "Enter" button on the remote.

bubbagumper6 12-18-2009 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YellowSnow4 (Post 25866972)
Highlight "White Balance" and then hit the "Enter" button on the remote.

ok, thanks. I'll try that when I get home :)

Even though I really couldn't tell the difference between my tv when I first turned it on and the calibrated version...the only thing that makes a visible difference to me is the brightness and contrast, lol.

podboy 12-18-2009 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YellowSnow4 (Post 25866972)
Highlight "White Balance" and then hit the "Enter" button on the remote.

Took me forever to find that on my own, the picture looks amazing now! :drool:

mobilesuit 12-18-2009 11:29 AM

Are you guys suggesting we should use the recommended settings right off the bat or wait until we have done the burn-in for first 100 hours or so?

tbizzy 12-19-2009 07:31 AM

I have a few questions on this theatre setup with the Samsung HT-Z320.

1) How can I get the receiver to power on with the TV? It powers down via Anylink HDMI connection when I turn off the TV, but I can't seem to get it to turn on with the TV in D.IN mode (digital audio in, acting as an amplifier)
2) When putting in a USB Hard drive, the DVD player always auto-plays the first track. Is there a setting to disable auto-play?
3) On the TV (PN50B530), is there any way to hide the input sources I don't use (coax, component, composite)? I have a DirecTV remote that I am using for everything and I am looking for a simpler way to toggle between just my two HDMI inputs as opposed to toggling through all inputs or use the selection arrows to switch.

Other than those questions, this is an awesome setup, my first HDTV and 5.1 stereo.

YellowSnow4 12-19-2009 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mobilesuit (Post 25869912)
Are you guys suggesting we should use the recommended settings right off the bat or wait until we have done the burn-in for first 100 hours or so?

It is advised that you keep the contrast to 50 for the first 100 hours, but I think it's fine, especially if you are limiting the amount of static images/black bars.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbizzy (Post 25895870)
I have a few questions on this theatre setup with the Samsung HT-Z320.

1) How can I get the receiver to power on with the TV? It powers down via Anylink HDMI connection when I turn off the TV, but I can't seem to get it to turn on with the TV in D.IN mode (digital audio in, acting as an amplifier)
2) When putting in a USB Hard drive, the DVD player always auto-plays the first track. Is there a setting to disable auto-play?
3) On the TV (PN50B530), is there any way to hide the input sources I don't use (coax, component, composite)? I have a DirecTV remote that I am using for everything and I am looking for a simpler way to toggle between just my two HDMI inputs as opposed to toggling through all inputs or use the selection arrows to switch.

Other than those questions, this is an awesome setup, my first HDTV and 5.1 stereo.

1)I don't think you can set it to always power on. You can use the TV remote to power it on by pushing the Tools button, Anynet, and then changing the Receiver to "On". That's also where you can change "Settings" to turn auto-off on and off, but there's no auto-on. :rolleyes: It's easier to just use the HT remote than the TV remote, but then there's no P. size button... :rolleyes:
2)Dunno, check the user maual from Samsung.com.
3)You can edit the name (source>tools) to show, "--" but it's still available, unfortunately.

Edit: Regarding question 1, you could probably just turn off auto-off and leave the HTS on all the time. Not great for power consumption and longevity of the HT though.

mobilesuit 12-19-2009 02:10 PM

I am trying to calibrate the tv, but some of the settings are gray out. Does anyone has the same problem?

user0013 12-19-2009 03:04 PM

I am using an air antenna (and am perfectly content with the amount of channels I receive btw). So I hooked up the HT-Z520 and played a dvd and it sounded good. Radio also sounded good in the 5.1 emulation mode. However, my main purpose of having the home theater setup is so i can have better sound when watching ordinary tv. I don't watch dvd's that often. The only feasible audio output i see on the tv is the optical out (there's no rca in on the dvd player). The tv doesn't have hdmi out. So does that mean I have to buy an optical cable going from the tv to the dvd player's optical-in port? If so, has anybody tried this and how was the sound quality?

Also, I am very pleased with the image quality of this tv, except for one minor thing. I'm currently burning in the tv mostly with the burn in disc on 30% contrast/brightness settings. As soon as I turned the tv on for the 1st time, there was a very subtle and hazy, ~1 inch thick vertical band ~1 inch from the left of the screen. It's more prominent with darker video. It's not IR because I've seen some IR of logos on the tv that fade in less than 30s. It resembles no bar seen in programming and it isn't well demarcated. Tried the scrolling burn in corrector and didn't work. No noticeable physical damage to the tv on arrival. Any ideas?

BTs4me 12-20-2009 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mobilesuit (Post 25905206)
I am trying to calibrate the tv, but some of the settings are gray out. Does anyone has the same problem?

do you have it on HDMI setting? If so, you have to change it back to "TV" setting

BTs4me 12-20-2009 07:44 AM

pix of wall mount from Monoprice
 
2 Attachment(s)
articulating, tilting wall mount installed. (See pix of mount and finished result.)

I purchased from Monoprice for less than $100 delivered; Best Buy wanted $379; Sears about the same price for a mount that would hold a 50" TV and that could be placed in a corner.

DefendFreedom 12-20-2009 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BTs4me (Post 25923926)
articulating, tilting wall mount installed. (See pix of mount and finished result.)

I purchased from Monoprice for less than $100 delivered; Best Buy wanted $379; Sears about the same price for a mount that would hold a 50" TV and that could be placed in a corner.

Looks great...I'm looking for a similar mount for mine. Did you consider any other mounts before you chose this one?

BTs4me 12-20-2009 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DefendFreedom (Post 25940422)
Looks great...I'm looking for a similar mount for mine. Did you consider any other mounts before you chose this one?

yes, from monoprice both 3724 and 3725 (which I bought). Model 3724 uses hollow steel bars for the construction of it''''s cantilever arms. PID# 3725 uses solid aluminum bars for the arms. Though both have the same rated wieght capacity, the steel arms have slightly more flex resulting in a little more sag when mounting the largest displays. I knew that I wouldn't be able to look at a tv hanging from a mount that was crooked for more than one nanosecond so I went for the all aluminum 3725.

I have to say that I liked the "look" of Best Buy's [bestbuy.com]product - but not their price (~$300 more than Monoprice). (I think this is the one I saw in the store - it's certainly the price I saw!) Of course, I don't even SEE the mount so it doesn't matter how it looks - not like I'm gonna leave it hanging there with the tv on the floor or anything! (almost as bad as the folks who passed up this deal b'c they didn't like that touch of color across the bottom... I've gotta tell you in my dark living room I can't even see it most of the time!)

I could have settled for picking up the brand at Sears [sears.com]if it had been cheaper as well but it was almost $250 more than Monoprice's OTD price PLUS it only had a 45 degree pivot. Finally, everything I saw at Target only had 30 degree pivot so I excluded them from my list as well. Didn't look anywhere else.

hope this helps and thanks for the advice re the wires hanging down. Not planning on moving anytime soon!

You'd only need the cantilever one if you're putting it in a corner; otherwise much less expensive mounts are available.

haloguy 12-20-2009 11:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by user0013 (Post 25906434)
I am using an air antenna (and am perfectly content with the amount of channels I receive btw). So I hooked up the HT-Z520 and played a dvd and it sounded good. Radio also sounded good in the 5.1 emulation mode. However, my main purpose of having the home theater setup is so i can have better sound when watching ordinary tv. I don't watch dvd's that often. The only feasible audio output i see on the tv is the optical out (there's no rca in on the dvd player). The tv doesn't have hdmi out. So does that mean I have to buy an optical cable going from the tv to the dvd player's optical-in port? If so, has anybody tried this and how was the sound quality?

Also, I am very pleased with the image quality of this tv, except for one minor thing. I'm currently burning in the tv mostly with the burn in disc on 30% contrast/brightness settings. As soon as I turned the tv on for the 1st time, there was a very subtle and hazy, ~1 inch thick vertical band ~1 inch from the left of the screen. It's more prominent with darker video. It's not IR because I've seen some IR of logos on the tv that fade in less than 30s. It resembles no bar seen in programming and it isn't well demarcated. Tried the scrolling burn in corrector and didn't work. No noticeable physical damage to the tv on arrival. Any ideas?

When you hook up the tv to receiver w/optical, it only transmits 2.0 sound. The only solution you would have to get 5.1 when watching tv would be to get a cable box and hook the receiver up directly to it.

As for that problem, you may have a defective panel. You might want to report that to samsung if it really bothers you.

vig0r 12-21-2009 12:35 PM

breaking the tv in with the break-in pictures on a usb drive works well.

YellowSnow4 12-21-2009 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by haloguy (Post 25945678)
When you hook up the tv to receiver w/optical, it only transmits 2.0 sound. The only solution you would have to get 5.1 when watching tv would be to get a cable box and hook the receiver up directly to it.

As for that problem, you may have a defective panel. You might want to report that to samsung if it really bothers you.

Actually, when you're using the TV's built-in tuner to decode HD content, it will transmit 5.1 to the receiver just fine.

http://slickdeals.net/forums/attachm...9&d=1260167456

richromerman 12-21-2009 07:48 PM

Optical Splitter
 
received my optical splitter from Monoprice today. I have my cable box and blu-ray player going through the splitter and into the HT-Z320. WORKS :nod:

http://www.monoprice.com/products [monoprice.com]

bubbagumper6 12-21-2009 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by richromerman (Post 25982234)
received my optical splitter from Monoprice today. I have my cable box and blu-ray player going through the splitter and into the HT-Z320. WORKS :nod:

http://www.monoprice.com/products [monoprice.com]

I also received mine today....but I've since decided to sell the HT system and build my own so I have no use for it now, lol

YellowSnow4 12-21-2009 08:54 PM

I got the manual switch and cables (also from monoprice) last week. The setup works just as expected, but the switch is a lot bigger than I expected. :lol:

Cyantist 12-22-2009 11:53 AM

any leads on a 3 - way optical splitter?

YellowSnow4 12-22-2009 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WvuAudiA4 (Post 26002968)
any leads on a 3 - way optical splitter?

The one I got is 3 way and works great (but it's the size of a stack of 20 or 30 CD's!)

Product Qty. Price Total
2946 3X1 Optical Audio Toslink Bi-Directional Manual Switch 1 $6.34 $6.34

1447 3FT Optical Toslink Cable 3 $1.93 $5.79

Subtotal : $12.13
Shipping & Handling Cost : $3.09
GRAND TOTAL : $15.22

fungroy 12-22-2009 10:36 PM

What to do?
 
I have a HT , a samsung blue ray player and a HD cable box from TWC. What kind of equip do I need to get the most of 5.1 surround sound( how many tosink cable and/or switch). And what is the correct way to connect EVERTYHING together? Greatly appreicate if someone can help me. I am noob on hooking those thing up

YellowSnow4 12-23-2009 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fungroy (Post 26020898)
I have a HT , a samsung blue ray player and a HD cable box from TWC. What kind of equip do I need to get the most of 5.1 surround sound( how many tosink cable and/or switch). And what is the correct way to connect EVERTYHING together? Greatly appreicate if someone can help me. I am noob on hooking those thing up

See post 91. You don't have to get that switch/splitter, but one like it. You'll want to bypass the TV for your audio output from the devices (asuming they all have optical out) and put them into the switch. Then run the switch to the optical on the HT.

This is because the TV only sends 5.1 when you're using the onboard tuner (like with over the air HD channels). It can't take the 5.1 it's getting from an HDMI cable and translate it to 5.1 over optical for you.

fungroy 12-23-2009 12:20 PM

I guess I should connect my blueray, cable box to that switch. Then connect the switch to HT. So I will only have a HDMI from HT to TV ??? What about the opitcal port on my TV, do I need it? Do I need to maually change the audio output every time I switch to a difference input source or it will swtich by itself? Thanks you so much for your time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by YellowSnow4 (Post 26030964)
See post 91. You don't have to get that switch/splitter, but one like it. You'll want to bypass the TV for your audio output from the devices (asuming they all have optical out) and put them into the switch. Then run the switch to the optical on the HT.

This is because the TV only sends 5.1 when you're using the onboard tuner (like with over the air HD channels). It can't take the 5.1 it's getting from an HDMI cable and translate it to 5.1 over optical for you.


YellowSnow4 12-23-2009 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fungroy (Post 26037662)
I guess I should connect my blueray, cable box to that switch. Then connect the switch to HT. So I will only have a HDMI from HT to TV ??? What about the opitcal port on my TV, do I need it? Do I need to maually change the audio output every time I switch to a difference input source or it will swtich by itself? Thanks you so much for your time.

You'll have an HDMI from the HT output to one of the three TV inputs. This is for the built in DVD/Ipod Player to send signal to the TV and to allow the Anynet feature to work. But you'll also want to use HDMI from your Blu Ray (and cable box if it has it) to the TV inputs.

The optical out on your TV can go to one of the inputs on the switch if you want. That's what I did. That way if you ever connect, say, a PC to your TV, you can run HDMI (or DVI plus RCA's) to the back of the TV and just flip the switch and get audio to your HT. No 5.1 this way, but most PC's don't output 5.1 anyway. But no, you don't "need" the optical out from the TV.

The switch I bought is manual. I don't beleive that an "auto-sense" switch would work unless it's somehow smart enough to know that when two devices are sending audio to it, I want the one that's not the DVR to be chosen.

fungroy 12-23-2009 04:41 PM

Thank you so much for all the answer, you are very helpful. I really appreicate it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by YellowSnow4 (Post 26038542)
You'll have an HDMI from the HT output to one of the three TV inputs. This is for the built in DVD/Ipod Player to send signal to the TV and to allow the Anynet feature to work. But you'll also want to use HDMI from your Blu Ray (and cable box if it has it) to the TV inputs.

The optical out on your TV can go to one of the inputs on the switch if you want. That's what I did. That way if you ever connect, say, a PC to your TV, you can run HDMI (or DVI plus RCA's) to the back of the TV and just flip the switch and get audio to your HT. No 5.1 this way, but most PC's don't output 5.1 anyway. But no, you don't "need" the optical out from the TV.

The switch I bought is manual. I don't beleive that an "auto-sense" switch would work unless it's somehow smart enough to know that when two devices are sending audio to it, I want the one that's not the DVR to be chosen.


slv300e 12-25-2009 05:31 PM

Hi everyone, I bought my b530 on BF. really happy with the price and the look. However I have a huge problem where I am considering returning this thing.

I get IR like a mofo.

After only 10 min of watching something, I can see the ghosting of the logos or HUD. It does go away, but it seems like it is not very resilient to IR.

I have set the contrast and brightness to 50.

I have about 40 hours logged.

Does anybody else have this problem? Is my set defective? Im seriously considering returning this, I hope other have the same IR issues, I hear it supposed to go away after 100 hours. Please help

mahdego 12-25-2009 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slv300e (Post 26091210)
Hi everyone, I bought my b530 on BF. really happy with the price and the look. However I have a huge problem where I am considering returning this thing.

I get IR like a mofo.

After only 10 min of watching something, I can see the ghosting of the logos or HUD. It does go away, but it seems like it is not very resilient to IR.

I have set the contrast and brightness to 50.

I have about 40 hours logged.

Does anybody else have this problem? Is my set defective? Im seriously considering returning this, I hope other have the same IR issues, I hear it supposed to go away after 100 hours. Please help

my set experiences pretty significant IR, mostly with ESPN. I have noticed it gets a lot better with more hours watched on the TV though. I do not feel the IR is a reason to return it, especially since it goes away within 30 seconds of regular tv watching... and the only way I see the IR is when I walk up close to the screen and look for it on a black background while changing channels.

BTs4me 12-26-2009 03:30 PM

universal remote ?
 
I have 3 remotes - TV, HTiB, and Cable box. Was able to buy a Logitech Harmony 550 refurb from NewEgg last week. Can anyone tell me how difficult it is to "get it right" by setting it up myself rather than having the $150 Geek Squad come in for what would be a 15 minute assignment for them? I've searched the Logitech Forums but didn't come across any tips or tricks and wanna make sure I do it right the first time. Any insight is appreciated as 3 remotes to juggle is ridiculous and way to technical for DH.

Shub 12-27-2009 05:14 PM

When I change the settings under Picture Mode (Standard, Movie, etc) it does not save the settings and goes back to the default after I turn it off and back on again. Any ideas?

the_xx 12-28-2009 02:09 PM

Fighting dell...need help
 
Like many on the original, epic forum, my TV arrived damaged. I've been dealing with Dell for weeks now, and I need the help of the SD community. If you received a damaged set and were sent a replacement or a different model (the 550 for example), can you email me your order number? I know this is slight OT, but I appreciate your help!

YellowSnow4 12-28-2009 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shub (Post 26131556)
When I change the settings under Picture Mode (Standard, Movie, etc) it does not save the settings and goes back to the default after I turn it off and back on again. Any ideas?

Are you sure? Realize that it saves different settings for each "picture mode" for each input. So "Standard" can have certain settings when watching from Device 1, and different settings when watching from Device 2.

MrMomacita 12-29-2009 05:31 PM

Can anyone help out a HDTV noobie. This is my first taste of a plasmas/LCD and can't figure some things out.

I just received my upgraded TV and Home Theater System today but am having trouble getting them to sync together so that I can hear surround sound while watching regular TV .

I popped in a DVD and the surround sound worked, but can't figure out why it isnt working when switching to my DirecTV.

Also, I have a standard DirecTV receiver, so I take it I can only hook up the coaxial cable from the receiver to the TV, and can't use a HDMI cable until I get an upgraded receiver?

Thanks all. :hug:

DefendFreedom 12-29-2009 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BTs4me (Post 25942260)
yes, from monoprice both 3724 and 3725 (which I bought). Model 3724 uses hollow steel bars for the construction of it''''s cantilever arms. PID# 3725 uses solid aluminum bars for the arms. Though both have the same rated wieght capacity, the steel arms have slightly more flex resulting in a little more sag when mounting the largest displays. I knew that I wouldn't be able to look at a tv hanging from a mount that was crooked for more than one nanosecond so I went for the all aluminum 3725.

hope this helps and thanks for the advice re the wires hanging down. Not planning on moving anytime soon!

You'd only need the cantilever one if you're putting it in a corner; otherwise much less expensive mounts are available.

I did order the 3724 and it arrived today. Thank you. I plan on installing it tomorrow but I'm not sure how high on the wall I should go. Don't want it too high or too low. Is there a recommended height for a wall mounted TV or does it just depend on the individual?

BTs4me 12-29-2009 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DefendFreedom (Post 26194972)
I did order the 3724 and it arrived today. Thank you. I plan on installing it tomorrow but I'm not sure how high on the wall I should go. Don't want it too high or too low. Is there a recommended height for a wall mounted TV or does it just depend on the individual?

From what I read prior to hanging, literature [crutchfield.com] stated it should be about eye level b'c you don't want to be tilting you head up for hours on end looking at it (e.g., over the fireplace which I see so much of these days). Before the installer came, I built a template out of newspaper the same size as the screen so I could get an idea where I wanted it. When the installer came, he had it higher on the wall, saying I really didn't want it that low. So we comprimised - a little higher than I had read and a little lower than he initially planned. And, to be perfectly honest, I think it's PERFECT!

The bottom of the TV is almost 38" from the floor (and the top is about 30" from the ceiling. My sofa seat cushions are ~18" off the floor. The closest seating is 12' away; the farthest is 15' away. When I look at the tv while standing up, my eyes are parallel to the top 1/3 of the screen so I could have gone higher but I think it looks balanced where it is. Besides, we found the stud there! LOL.

Good luck.

RQ530 01-01-2010 10:43 AM

if i dont do the dvd calibrations and just watch for 100 hours with the settings a little lower, will i be fine??

YellowSnow4 01-01-2010 11:03 AM

I think you mean the dvd break in and yes, you'll be fine. Also follow the other instructions on the wiki like limiting still images (like black bars) to 10-15% of your viewing during the first 50-100 hours.

RQ530 01-01-2010 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YellowSnow4 (Post 26267192)
I think you mean the dvd break in and yes, you'll be fine. Also follow the other instructions on the wiki like limiting still images (like black bars) to 10-15% of your viewing during the first 50-100 hours.

ya, sorry, i did mean the break in. ok, i will just keep the tv on zoom so that bars on espn and movies dont show up. thank-you for your help

bubbagumper6 01-01-2010 04:29 PM

For anyone that's still confused on configuring their tv...I had been using my settings but I tried THESE [plasmatvbuyingguide.com] today, and it looks amazing!

DefendFreedom 01-01-2010 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vig0r (Post 25968620)
breaking the tv in with the break-in pictures on a usb drive works well.

I'd like to try this as well. Is there a link for the download/instructions somewhere? My search has proved fruitless...thank you in advance.

BTs4me 01-02-2010 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DefendFreedom (Post 26278710)
I'd like to try this as well. Is there a link for the download/instructions somewhere? My search has proved fruitless...thank you in advance.

um, I found it in the Wiki weeks ago - did you look there (I didn't check to see if it was still there). Anyway, here you go. I assume you just copy it to your usb drive rather than a CD-R. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/sh...ost6230381

DefendFreedom 01-02-2010 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BTs4me (Post 26289974)
um, I found it in the Wiki weeks ago - did you look there (I didn't check to see if it was still there). Anyway, here you go. I assume you just copy it to your usb drive rather than a CD-R. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/sh...ost6230381

Yeah, I knew that was there. I was looking for something else that was posted but don't remember where I saw it. Something about random images that are run off of a usb drive. Unless I was dreaming...

BTs4me 01-02-2010 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DefendFreedom (Post 26290604)
Yeah, I knew that was there. I was looking for something else that was posted but don't remember where I saw it. Something about random images that are run off of a usb drive. Unless I was dreaming...

supposedly there are random images on the break-in disc so maybe you just remember it from reading the AV forum info????

DefendFreedom 01-03-2010 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BTs4me (Post 26290918)
supposedly there are random images on the break-in disc so maybe you just remember it from reading the AV forum info????

you were correct, thank you! I shouldn't have been so lazy and searched a little bit more. All the downloads can be found here...

Plasma Break-in [eaprogramming.com]

click on DOWNLOADS on top, middle of page

xiaobao12 01-03-2010 03:47 PM

regarding hdmi with 530 samsung
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by haloguy (Post 25642447)
I think the usb function was the main reason for switching.



I found a useful tool for those who want 5.1 from multiple sources.
http://www.monoprice.com/products...largeimage

Not only will this allow multiple inputs, like other switches have, but it will also take the 5.1 out of the hdmi signal and put it out through toslink. This is important because when you connected toslink from the tv to reciever, you only get 2.0, not 5.1 The tv downmixes. You must use this in certain situations to get 5.1 audio when you cannot output optical audio from your source. for example, my computer puts out hdmi, but doesn't have an option for optical out. Therefore, due to the tv downmixing before outputting, I have no way to get 5.1 audio to the reciever without the switch.

hey haloguy,

does your receiver have HDMI? if it does, then it doesn't need the optical then right? because HDMI is video AND sound no?

thanks.

YellowSnow4 01-03-2010 07:04 PM

^ The home theater we got with the Dell Deal has HDMI out, but not in.

rvmehta 01-03-2010 07:07 PM

what firmware version do you all have? the one that I have already on my TV appears to be newer than the one that Samsung has on its website.

when i go to support menu, and "software upgrade" submenu, and then click "info" on my remote, on the screen, it shows:

T-STL5PAUSFC-1020.0 2009/09/18

on the samsung website, the firmware download shows:

version: 1018.1 and release date of September 18, 2009


I'd like to enable the JPG/MP3 functionality on the tv.....can anyone help figure this out?

Giants85 01-06-2010 06:52 AM

For those that kept the HTIB...

Just wondering what settings you are using and your thoughts about them.

I received the HTz420 and have the optical going from my cable box to the dvd player. I have the dvd player set to Matrix, which seems to be 5.1ch, is it?

Also, the surround sound does not get as loud when connected to the cable box as it does when connected to my media player or when watching a dvd. Anyone else experience this?

YellowSnow4 01-06-2010 10:28 AM

Matrix is for recreation of 5.1 from a stereo signal. If you've got 5.1 signal coming from the cable box via optical, you should just see "D. In" on the HT display. Then when a 5.1 show comes on, you should hear true 5.1 surround sound.

And yes, I have to turn the HT volume all the way for some HD programs from my DVR.

Giants85 01-06-2010 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YellowSnow4 (Post 26400825)
Matrix is for recreation of 5.1 from a stereo signal. If you've got 5.1 signal coming from the cable box via optical, you should just see "D. In" on the HT display. Then when a 5.1 show comes on, you should hear true 5.1 surround sound.

And yes, I have to turn the HT volume all the way for some HD programs from my DVR.

When it is connected to my cable box the HT display does show D.In, however, I can still switch between different sound profiles (stereo, matrix, etc.). Is that normal and which should I chose? (edit: Which should I chose to get true 5.1)


Thanks for the help.

YellowSnow4 01-06-2010 10:39 AM

Huh, that's odd because the HT won't let me choose those different sound profiles when I'm watching my DVR. If I were you, I'd check the user manual PDF for the HT. It describes what each S. mode is.

Giants85 01-06-2010 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YellowSnow4 (Post 26401181)
Huh, that's odd because the HT won't let me choose those different sound profiles when I'm watching my DVR. If I were you, I'd check the user manual PDF for the HT. It describes what each S. mode is.

I'll have to look into it further, I also noticed that if I have ACS On it won't let me swtich between profiles, but if I turn ACS Off it does.

And there is another setting through my actual cable box for audio, if i switch that to Dolby Digital, I cannot switch the sound profiles on the HTIB. If I keep it at HDMI it allows me to swtich the profiles, with acs off of course.

Problem with switching to Dolby Digital on the cable box is that if I turn my HTIB off no sound comes out of the TV, I have to go back into the settings of the cable box and switch back to HDMI.

:confused:

YellowSnow4 01-06-2010 11:17 AM

I think you have to have your cable box set to Dolby Digital to get 5.1 from it. The HT doesn't have HDMI in, so you can't get 5.1 from the box to the HT with HDMI.

That sucks that your cable box won't send sound via HDMI and Optical at the same time. I just turn off my HT and the TV speakers start working right away. Can I ask who your cable box is from? Mine's from Charter and it's a Motorola Moxi DVR. I hate it sometimes due to pixelation of HD content and an annoying blue vertical line on SD content.

Giants85 01-06-2010 12:11 PM

If I set my cable box to HDMI for audio out and have the optical hooked up between cable box and HT I receive sound from the HT (obviously not through HDMI but through the optical), just not sure if it is true 5.1 ( I do hear sound from all speakers).

Also, if I turn off HT sound is then heard out of TV speakers.

If I switch cable box to Dolby Digital and have optical hooked up between box and HT I hear sound from HT from all speakers as well. But, when I turn the HT off no sound is produced from TV speakers, until I switch the sound on the box back to HDMI.

I'm not home at the moment, I'll have to compare how the HT speakers sound when switched from HDMI out to Digital Dolby out on the cable box. From what I remember though they sound identical.

Cable box is from Cablevision and I believe the HD box is Scientific Atlanta Explorer.

YellowSnow4 01-06-2010 12:20 PM

To test for true 5.1, try to watch a movie presented in HD Dolby 5.1. It's more likely to allow you to identify if it's really working. A flyby from a helicopter coming from behind the camera would be an example of a great test.

Hopefully in HDMI mode, you are getting true 5.1 through the optical cable because then you can just leave the cable box on HDMI mode all the time and simply turn off the HT to get audio from the TV speakers.

Giants85 01-06-2010 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YellowSnow4 (Post 26405005)
To test for true 5.1, try to watch a movie presented in HD Dolby 5.1. It's more likely to allow you to identify if it's really working. A flyby from a helicopter coming from behind the camera would be an example of a great test.

Hopefully in HDMI mode, you are getting true 5.1 through the optical cable because then you can just leave the cable box on HDMI mode all the time and simply turn off the HT to get audio from the TV speakers.

Only problem is while in HDMI mode the HT allows me to switch between sound profiles, even though HT display says D.In. Which I should not be able to do if I am experiencing true 5.1ch, correct?

I've been keeping this on Matrix, which the booklet says is 5.1ch, but you mentioned this may not be true 5.1ch.

I'll have to give it a better listen to tonight and see what I find, ideally I would want to be able to turn off the HT and have the speakers on the TV play the sound(without having to change any settings on the box). So it seems as if HDMI out on my cable box is the way to go, as long as while this is selected I am receiving true 5.1ch surround through the optical.

Never thought I could make an HTIB setup so complicated.

Also, do you have the wireless receiver? The fan in that is loud, right? I had to hide it behind my recliner. Although the fan on that somewhat drowns out the buzzing I hear from the TV.:lol:

YellowSnow4 01-06-2010 12:57 PM

Ha. I'm pretty sure Matrix is not true 5.1, but I'm going by what I remember reading in the PDF user manual.

I don't have the wireless receiver. Fortunately the wires were just long enough to route around the edge of the room. I will staple them down eventually, but I'm not worried about it since they're out of sight and mind.

So I obviously get no fan sound, but I also get no buzz from the TV, thankfully.

bubbagumper6 01-06-2010 02:45 PM

HT system FINALLY got delivered...surprisingly I got upgraded to the 420 :D

Still probably going to sell it but now I can get more for it, lol.

AZ988 01-06-2010 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YellowSnow4 (Post 26406443)
Ha. I'm pretty sure Matrix is not true 5.1, but I'm going by what I remember reading in the PDF user manual.

I don't have the wireless receiver. Fortunately the wires were just long enough to route around the edge of the room. I will staple them down eventually, but I'm not worried about it since they're out of sight and mind.

So I obviously get no fan sound, but I also get no buzz from the TV, thankfully.

If you stand right behind the TV, you can't hear any buzzing at all? I can hear buzzing from mine (and any other plasma I've encountered), but thats only if the volume is really low or there's a quiet scene. This is even while sitting ~5-6 feet from the TV, but I have sensitive hearing...

YellowSnow4 01-06-2010 03:19 PM

I'll try to hear it, but so far, nothing.

My GF walked by it the other night though and said, "Damn, I can feel some heat coming off that thing!". I wish I had a device to tell me how much wattage it pulls, but it's just over 200 according to Crutchfield IIRC.

malhar 01-06-2010 10:39 PM

HT-Z320 and DIVX
 
When I play divx from a hard drive on this player, it suddenly stops, and I have to start the movie all over again. DIVX plays fine on Phillips DVP 5992. Any one else having the same problem? Any solutions?

Thanks

AZ988 01-06-2010 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YellowSnow4 (Post 26411015)
I'll try to hear it, but so far, nothing.

My GF walked by it the other night though and said, "Damn, I can feel some heat coming off that thing!". I wish I had a device to tell me how much wattage it pulls, but it's just over 200 according to Crutchfield IIRC.

Ah ok, thanks!!

Giants85 01-07-2010 05:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YellowSnow4 (Post 26406443)
Ha. I'm pretty sure Matrix is not true 5.1, but I'm going by what I remember reading in the PDF user manual.

I don't have the wireless receiver. Fortunately the wires were just long enough to route around the edge of the room. I will staple them down eventually, but I'm not worried about it since they're out of sight and mind.

So I obviously get no fan sound, but I also get no buzz from the TV, thankfully.

Alright, so I think I got this figured out. I did in fact need to switch the settings on my cable box audio out to "Dolby Digital". This provides me with true 5.1ch from my cable box, as long as the ch/show/movie is being transmitted in 5.1.

While in this mode I cannot switch between the different sound profiles, which is a good thing, since it is already set to true 5.1ch surround sound and no changes need to be made.

Only problem with this is if I turn off the HT I will need to go back into the cable box settings to switch back to hdmi. Not really a problem more of a hassle, but I can deal.

Next question is, what exactly is the DRC setting on the HT? and how is everyone setting up the speakers, as far ASC or doing their own calibration and settings?

Thanks.

asdf002 01-07-2010 09:35 AM

really bad buzzing on my unit. called samsung about it in november and still no service person and of course im 21+ days since purchse so cant return to dell. going to call samsung today and see what else they can do. buzzing is really really loud when the "menu" is displayed.

YellowSnow4 01-07-2010 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZ988 (Post 26410879)
If you stand right behind the TV, you can't hear any buzzing at all? I can hear buzzing from mine (and any other plasma I've encountered), but thats only if the volume is really low or there's a quiet scene. This is even while sitting ~5-6 feet from the TV, but I have sensitive hearing...

I just muted the TV and put my ear to the back of it and I can hear a little bit of a noise like a fish tank from within, but I can't hear anything from the front. Considering the fans in my previous LCD, this TV is quiet.

YellowSnow4 01-07-2010 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Giants85 (Post 26425449)
Alright, so I think I got this figured out. I did in fact need to switch the settings on my cable box audio out to "Dolby Digital". This provides me with true 5.1ch from my cable box, as long as the ch/show/movie is being transmitted in 5.1.

While in this mode I cannot switch between the different sound profiles, which is a good thing, since it is already set to true 5.1ch surround sound and no changes need to be made.

Only problem with this is if I turn off the HT I will need to go back into the cable box settings to switch back to hdmi. Not really a problem more of a hassle, but I can deal.

Next question is, what exactly is the DRC setting on the HT? and how is everyone setting up the speakers, as far ASC or doing their own calibration and settings?

Thanks.

That's why I couldn't access any settings. I had the ASC turned on. It barely had to trim the delay anyway so I'm going to leave it off.

You might consider a Logitech Harmony 1, no personal experience though. I really want to get DirectTV since they have 1080p and my current DVR is lame. Though it does let me connect a USB drive which is awesome.

BDW1 01-08-2010 08:09 AM

Remote Code
 
Can anyone tell me the remote code so I can control the TV with my cable box remote?

Thanks

Giants85 01-09-2010 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BDW1 (Post 26464371)
Can anyone tell me the remote code so I can control the TV with my cable box remote?

Thanks

004 101 127 133 160 089 105 070 237 239 184 185 192

Not sure if these are unique to cable box remote, but these are the codes that my cable box remote had listed.

I think 101 worked for me.

Who is your cable provider and what is the make of your cable box?

TextileWolf 01-09-2010 06:10 PM

My TV has been great and I have been very happy with this, but tonight I noticed 2 stuck or dead pixels that are right on top of each other right in the center. I don't know if I will try and do anything about it, but it is a little annoying.

Giants85 01-10-2010 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TextileWolf (Post 26507439)
My TV has been great and I have been very happy with this, but tonight I noticed 2 stuck or dead pixels that are right on top of each other right in the center. I don't know if I will try and do anything about it, but it is a little annoying.

Samsung has a dead/stuck pixel policy, and I believe it says that 1-3 is normal.

I too have a few dead pixels, 3 or 4 in the lower right hand corner. I filled out a service form on the samsung website a few weeks ago, but have yet to hear a response back. It gave me the number of the local repair shop that would come out to look at it, I've just yet to call.

Not sure it's worth having them take the tv apart if nothing can be done anyway, which is why I haven't called yet. Figured if they call me or come out then they can look at it, otherwise I'll just live with it.


Also, stuck pixels can eventually fix themselves and become "unstuck" over time. I would try running the break in dvd to cycle through the colors in hopes it may exercise the stuck pixels enough to fix them.

Thameth 01-10-2010 05:30 PM

Anybody else with Comcast having issue's getting optical audio out of the DCT6412 DVR? The optical output on the DVR is lit up but doesn't seem to be outputting audio. Is there a way to turn it on? I'm using HDMI into the TV and Optical SPDIF out to the HTIB.

The speakers on the TV are horrible and I can't wait to get the HTIB working with what I watch the most...

YellowSnow4 01-11-2010 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thameth (Post 26527779)
Anybody else with Comcast having issue's getting optical audio out of the DCT6412 DVR? The optical output on the DVR is lit up but doesn't seem to be outputting audio. Is there a way to turn it on? I'm using HDMI into the TV and Optical SPDIF out to the HTIB.

The speakers on the TV are horrible and I can't wait to get the HTIB working with what I watch the most...

I don't mind the tv speakers. Sometimes you just have to choose a different S. Mode to get them to sound okay. Don't get me wrong, I'd hate to watch a movie with them, but for just watching TV, it's fine for me.

Are you hitting "Aux" on the HT remote until "D. In" is displayed on the display? Make sure you try turning up the volume real loud as my cable box puts out fairly quiet HD sound.

bubbagumper6 01-11-2010 11:20 AM

To anyone that sold the HT system on craigslist...what model did you have and how much did you get? I got upgraded to the Z420 and have it listed for $250 and I've only had one email and it was an offer for $175 :mad:

Thameth 01-11-2010 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YellowSnow4 (Post 26545923)
I don't mind the tv speakers. Sometimes you just have to choose a different S. Mode to get them to sound okay. Don't get me wrong, I'd hate to watch a movie with them, but for just watching TV, it's fine for me.

Are you hitting "Aux" on the HT remote until "D. In" is displayed on the display? Make sure you try turning up the volume real loud as my cable box puts out fairly quiet HD sound.

I'll try Aux until i get to D, but I don't have to do that for my PS3 audio, it just works.

YellowSnow4 01-11-2010 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thameth (Post 26548768)
I'll try Aux until i get to D, but I don't have to do that for my PS3 audio, it just works.

If the last thing you did was use Digital In, the HT should stay with that, but with AnyNet enabled and the built in CD/DVD player, you never know. As long as the display says "D. In" and the optical cable is good and connected, it should really work. You might also check the settings on your cable box, even though you said light is coming out.

Thameth 01-11-2010 01:14 PM

Just checked and that didn't make a difference, I'm guessing its the cable box but I can't get into the diagnostic mode that some websites show there is.

This is a fairly popular DVR box that almost any Comcast DVR user should have, anybody else have it with these problems?

YellowSnow4 01-11-2010 01:28 PM

You might try compressed air on the end of the cable and the port. A spec of dust could theoretically be blocking the signal.

Thameth 01-11-2010 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YellowSnow4 (Post 26549973)
You might try compressed air on the end of the cable and the port. A spec of dust could theoretically be blocking the signal.

Will try that too, though i have a feeling thats not it. Though the cable box was pretty dusty..... argh.

crate42272 01-11-2010 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xiaobao12 (Post 26317038)
hey haloguy,

does your receiver have HDMI? if it does, then it doesn't need the optical then right? because HDMI is video AND sound no?

thanks.

it depends on if your receiver is "Pass through or not" Lower end models just switch the HDMI signal and let the audio "Pass through" without decoding it.

rvmehta 01-16-2010 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bubbagumper6 (Post 26546077)
To anyone that sold the HT system on craigslist...what model did you have and how much did you get? I got upgraded to the Z420 and have it listed for $250 and I've only had one email and it was an offer for $175 :mad:

sold the Z320 for $180 on craigslist before christmas. Walmart was selling it for $20 more, so I think I got a good price for it.

BTs4me 01-16-2010 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvmehta (Post 26321464)
... I'd like to enable the JPG/MP3 functionality on the tv.....can anyone help figure this out?

I believe rvmehta is asking about upgrading to B550/560. I thought this question was answered in this thread but couldn't find it so I posted the info on upgrading in the Wiki for this thread (it was in the original thread for purchase). rvmehta if this doesn't answer your question, please repost/rephrase and we'll give it another go.

haloguy 01-18-2010 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Giants85 (Post 26404599)
If I set my cable box to HDMI for audio out and have the optical hooked up between cable box and HT I receive sound from the HT (obviously not through HDMI but through the optical), just not sure if it is true 5.1 ( I do hear sound from all speakers).

Also, if I turn off HT sound is then heard out of TV speakers.

If I switch cable box to Dolby Digital and have optical hooked up between box and HT I hear sound from HT from all speakers as well. But, when I turn the HT off no sound is produced from TV speakers, until I switch the sound on the box back to HDMI.

I'm not home at the moment, I'll have to compare how the HT speakers sound when switched from HDMI out to Digital Dolby out on the cable box. From what I remember though they sound identical.

Cable box is from Cablevision and I believe the HD box is Scientific Atlanta Explorer.

I have the same box. to get 5.1 you need to set it to dolby digital

AZ988 01-19-2010 09:31 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Have any of you noticed some weird color banding/bleeding issues? I notice this mainly when I use my TV as a computer monitor. When I open a window (like windows explorer or calculator) onto a light background, I'll notice a faint horizontal line span across the screen at the top and bottom edges of that window... I'll also see the same effect when I pull up the onscreen 'keyboard' on my PS3. Here's a sad looking drawing to illustrate what I'm talking about. Thanks!

Giants85 01-19-2010 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by haloguy (Post 26751725)
I have the same box. to get 5.1 you need to set it to dolby digital

Yea, somewhat annoying since everytime you turn the surround sound off you'll need to switch it back to HDMI to hear sound from TV speakers. But not a huge deal as I try to use the surround sound speakers almost exclusively.

YellowSnow4 01-19-2010 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZ988 (Post 26768913)
Have any of you noticed some weird color banding/bleeding issues? I notice this mainly when I use my TV as a computer monitor. When I open a window (like windows explorer or calculator) onto a light background, I'll notice a faint horizontal line span across the screen at the top and bottom edges of that window... I'll also see the same effect when I pull up the onscreen 'keyboard' on my PS3. Here's a sad looking drawing to illustrate what I'm talking about. Thanks!

I have not noticed that issue when using my PS3 onscreen keyboard or when using my PC's DVI out.

Edit: Could there be a setting issue causing this, like noise cancelation or whatever it's called? I'm using the settings for the 550 in the Wiki.

http://reviews.plasmatvbuyingguid...eview.html

AZ988 01-19-2010 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YellowSnow4 (Post 26769713)
I have not noticed that issue when using my PS3 onscreen keyboard or when using my PC's DVI out.

Edit: Could there be a setting issue causing this, like noise cancelation or whatever it's called? I'm using the settings for the 550 in the Wiki.

http://reviews.plasmatvbuyingguid...eview.html

Thanks for the reply! I've been using the same settings as well. Maybe it's time to call service in. :/

Simulack 01-22-2010 09:11 AM

I have a few set up questions I would greatly appreciate help with. I've had my TV since mid-December but hadn't gotten around to setting it up yet as I recently had to move. I'm having a little trouble with the audio...

My cable was installed today. The installation guy used component cables but now I am running an HDMI from the cable box to the television. I also have an HDMI cable running from the HT to the TV. For audio, I am using the optical cable linked in the original thread. I have that hooked up from my cable box to my TV. Watching cable, I get sound from the front two speakers currently but none from the other ones. How do I get sound in 5.1?

The other device I am trying to set up is my 360. Right now the audio from the cable continues to play while I run the Xbox. The only way to get the proper audio is to switch back to the TV's audio rather than run it through the receiver. How do I wire to get the Xbox to play 5.1 sound through the receiver?

Yesterday, prior to the cable installation, I had the optical cable hooked up directly from the TV to the HT. Then I got audio just from the front two speakers when watching TV or using my Xbox. The only timed it outputted 5.1 was when watching a DVD.

Any help would be great, thanks. I'm a total novice at this.

YellowSnow4 01-22-2010 09:16 AM

If you do audio through the TV, as you are, you won't get true 5.1. But you can push the Prologic button or whatever it's called and cyle to "Matrix" which recreates 5.1, from the stereo signal the TV sends it. This is not the same as true 5.1 though.

The only way to get true 5.1 from the HTS is to run the source device (cable box, 360, etc) directly to the HTS. I installed a manual Toslink switch so that I could switch the audio from my PS3, cable box, laptop. The switch I bought is annoying though. The cables lose connection very easily when I touch it.

For more details, search this thread for my other posts.

Simulack 01-22-2010 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YellowSnow4 (Post 26862893)
The only way to get true 5.1 from the HTS is to run the source device (cable box, 360, etc) directly to the HTS. I installed a manual Toslink switch so that I could switch the audio from my PS3, cable box, laptop. The switch I bought is annoying though. The cables lose connection very easily when I touch it.

Right now I have the audio cable hooked directly from the cable box to the HTS. I've gone into the TV settings to output via external receiver. The sound still only plays from the front two speakers.

Ah, when I hit the PL button it started playing the simulated 5.1 or whatever it is.

YellowSnow4 01-22-2010 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simulack (Post 26863291)
Right now I have the audio cable hooked directly from the cable box to the HTS. I've gone into the TV settings to output via external receiver. The sound still only plays from the front two speakers.

Ah, when I hit the PL button it started playing the simulated 5.1 or whatever it is.

I think if you set it to "Cinema" and you have a 5.1 signal, you'll get true 5.1 now. If you can't change it to Cinema, and it just displays, "D. In", that's okay too. Mine does that when playing 5.1 media from the PS3. It's annoying that you can't adjust the bass and treble with true 5.1 though. I really wish I had sold the HTS and got one with mulitple Toslink in and a graphic equalizer.

Simulack 01-22-2010 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YellowSnow4 (Post 26863587)
I think if you set it to "Cinema" and you have a 5.1 signal, you'll get true 5.1 now. If you can't change it to Cinema, and it just displays, "D. In", that's okay too. Mine does that when playing 5.1 media from the PS3. It's annoying that you can't adjust the bass and treble with true 5.1 though. I really wish I had sold the HTS and got one with mulitple Toslink in and a graphic equalizer.

Pardon my retardation, but where/how do I set it to "cinema?" Right now, it just says "D. IN."

Finally (and you may not know this as I don't know if you have a 360), if I want to hook up the 360 directly to the HTS to get 5.1, how do I do that? The 360 doesn't have a connector for the opitcal audio cable as far as I can see. Right now it is just hooked up through HDMI directly to the TV. So the only way to get sound is via the TV and not the receiver. Previously (when I had the audio cable run directly from the TV to receiver), I got sound of just the front 2 speakers.

Thanks a lot for your help.

YellowSnow4 01-22-2010 09:48 AM

I believe the 360 hookup has been discussed in this thread, so you might search this thread for "360". If it wasn't here, then unfortunately it's in the original thread (linked int he Wiki of this thread) so search that one if this one turns up nothing.

As I said, above, if it just says "D. In" that's okay, you should see true 5.1. In that situation pushing the PL button or whatever it's called, won't do anything. In fact, the only buttons that work on the remote in that situation are the display dimmer, the volume, and the power button IIRC. It's kinda weak, but at least most things sound pretty good.

My biggest complaint is how some audio is too dynamic. When watching a movie, I find myself lowering and raising the volume since it's so bad. If I didn't adjust it, the conversations would be inaudible and the explosions would wake the neighbors across the street. Well, it's not that bad, but it's bad.

bubbagumper6 01-23-2010 09:50 AM

Hey is there any way to set one of the AV inputs to be audio only? I want to hook up my satellite radio to come out through the tv speakers, but the TV only turns on the AV inputs when there's a video signal active...

haloguy 01-26-2010 12:41 PM

Has anyone figured out how to change the output from the reciever when watching a dvd on it? For some reason, I cant find the option to change it. Its on 480i right now.

YellowSnow4 01-26-2010 12:54 PM

At one point, I just pushed the SD/HD button repeatedly and it switched successfully from 480 to 720 to 1080 and now it's always 1080.

haloguy 01-26-2010 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YellowSnow4 (Post 26973881)
At one point, I just pushed the SD/HD button repeatedly and it switched successfully from 480 to 720 to 1080 and now it's always 1080.

Ive tried that button but it hasn't done anything. Maybe Ive set it to tv and not receiver... I will try again.

YellowSnow4 01-26-2010 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by haloguy (Post 26977225)
Ive tried that button but it hasn't done anything. Maybe Ive set it to tv and not receiver... I will try again.

Check the manual. I think there was some requirement like you have to be watching a DVD or you have to have a DVD in but have it Stopped...or something.

Giants85 02-23-2010 04:29 PM

Hey everyone, just a heads up for those that put this on a DPA card and were expecting no interest for 12 months.

When I went to look at my statement I saw that they actually applied a finance charge, I called up (800-283-2210) and told them about this and the CSR was able to switch my account to the promotional credit plan.

Any finance charges are supposed to fall off on my next statement, we'll see what actually happens.

So check your statements carefully.

Just more Dell bullshit...


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